I arrived in Fairbanks, AK on April 1st, 2017.
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A gravel pit nearby our cabin in Healy, AK. Someone had had one too many drinks and got their truck stuck.
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Gerardo taking snow depth measurements on the control side of our permafrost warming experiment.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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Transport to and from the study site for the first month was by snowmachines (snowmobiles).
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The first month of the field season was dedicated to evening out the snow pack on both sides of the experiment. The folks from UAF's Bonanza Creek LTER and NEON lended us a hand.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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See link for more information (CiPEHR).
Shot with an iPhone 6s.
The overall aim of the experiment was to artificially warm the tundra in order to study how carbon flux and permafrost thaw would change under a warming climate scenario. To do this snow fences are installed each winter to trap snow onto one side of the experimental plot. The increased snowpack insulates the tundra and creates a warming effect on the soil and underlying permafrost.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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However, we need to remove that excess snow before the snow begins to melt because excess water and flooding is not part of the experiment.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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Snapshots of our front yard.
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The cabin was heated by an oil burning heater.
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The folks we rented our cabin from trained and ran sled dogs during the winter. It was an incredible added bonus to my time in Alaska and the many dogs quickly became family. This is where harnesses, food, and treats for the sled dogs are kept.
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Lasso looking like a prince.
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Shungnak taking a nap.
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Queen, Sophia, and Pirate waiting for the rest of the team to be harnessed in.
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The basic dogsled. Two anchors, a drag pad and a foot break. The only controls a dogsled team knows is left or right other than that it's up to the musher to know when and how much they need to put on the breaks.
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Both anchors out and both feet on the break is the most you can do for a full stop. Even then the dogs could sometimes pull the sled loose.
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An 8 dog team was enough to pull a musher and one person in the sled.
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Snowshoeing the Savage River Loop in Denali National Park.
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My first time witnessing the aurora borealis was breathtaking. The sky lit up bright green and purple and lines tore across the sky. It was far from the peaceful, slow shimmering I always saw on t.v. The aurora is most viewable during winter when the skies are clear and I was catching the tail-end of the season.
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My dearest, Queen.
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Every 1 to 2 weeks we would drive to Fairbanks for groceries and showers. The 2 hour drive to Fairbanks became a regular commute for me.
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Ohma, Justin's dog and my favorite of the dogs I met this season.
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Ohma is a diva.
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The second phase of our preparation for the summer season was to hook up all of our autochambers. These chambers act as miniature greenhouses and open and close automatically over specified plots within our site. They measure fluxes in carbon dioxide and temperature.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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A panorama of our backyard.
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Our view from our cabin looking south towards the Alaska Range.
Taken on Earth Day 2017
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The view looking back towards our cabin.
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Our Eddy Covariance Flux Tower. Ours was equipped with a sonic anemometer, relative humidity, CO2, and CH4 sensors.
See link for more information (Eddy Covariance).
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At this point in the season the snowpack was high enough and soft enough that we needed snowshoes to access the tower.
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The "brain" that controlled our autochambers, soil temperature sensors, and water table depth sensors. A datalogger records all of the readings from 8 different chambers set throughout the site. CiPEHR was comprised of three sites: Site A, Site B, and Site C.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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A clear cut getting put in means free firewood.
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We spent many of our weekends hiking in Denali National Park which was only a 30 minute drive away.
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Our cabin was a "dry" cabin which meant no running water. The pipes would freeze and burst in the winter. We got our drinking/cooking water from a nearby well maintained my the Panguingue Creek HOA.
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The warming effect of the experiment was seen most drastically in spots where the subsidence of the tundra had caused severe flooding of certain plots.
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Coconut was our neighbors' dog. She was the sweetest.
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More flooding.
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The second study site we were in charge of maintaining was the GradientEML site - three separate sites under minimal, moderate, and extensive levels of permafrost thaw, vegetation change and active layer thickening. The sites are being studied to see how interactions between the permafrost thaw and climate change are changing. Much like the CiPEHR site, GradientEML has a variety of temp, air, and CO2 sensors. It is home to our Eddy, Energy, and wind turbine towers.
See link for more information (GradientEML).
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Justin showing me how to use our multi-spectral camera. We used this camera to determined the normalized difference vegetation index of images taken of the tundra. We would then incorporate that information about the tundra’s growing season with data from our other various protocols.
See link for more information (NDVI).
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Denali National Park was unique to me in that it had no established trails. During the winter season visitors were welcome to drive up to a certain mile marker, park along the road anywhere they wanted, and hike off into the wilderness. It was liberating and unbelievable.
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Breathtaking. Denali National Park was the wildest national park I have visited till date.
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Argo, Ohma's sister, was another one of the neighborhood dogs. For the most part our neighbors were all dog mushers as well and it wasn't uncommon for the yearlings from other yards to be running around freely.
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Queen and I would talk in the evenings. She was a great listener.
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Meghan working on the brains.
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Ted and Egbert taking a soil core. It was fun watching two Professors handling the sipra-core.
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An active layer "brownie" cut by Kristyn.
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A day off spent with Heidi and Emily hiking up Mt. Healy.
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We never made it close.
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Geologists will be geologists.
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Bear corn.
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Our driveway at it's peak occupancy.
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GradientEML relies in part on our windturbine to charge the marine batteries that power our instruments. A solar panel makes up for the rest of it.
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Our landlord's (Mike's) son's (Jacob's) vintage Oshkosh dump truck being used to haul gravel.
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The first budbreak of the season. Spring had arrived!
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Driving down the Denali Highway (Alaska Route 8).
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The highway is mostly gravel road and was a favorite to use among tourists, hunters, and hikers alike.
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Poppy and Justin taking a breather after our summit beers and a storm creeps in.
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Ohma (unexpectedly) gave birth to two healthy puppies in May. A boy and a girl, they were named Boom Town and Oosa.
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Oosa and her mean mug.
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In June, Taiga gave birth to a litter of 5 healthy puppies. Three boys and two girls, they were named Flash, Flint, Finn, Otter, and Stripe (I can't remember what her owner eventually named her).
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Taiga, the proud mama.
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As the tundra eased into summer the vegetation greened and the Eriophorum vaginatum puff balls bloomed.
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Just another day in the office.
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Meghan juggling methane flux measurements and paper revisions.
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My favorite spot to catch the sunset/brush my teeth. I had many peaceful, quiet moments on our porch.
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Black spruce (Picea mariana) cone.
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On June 3rd, 2017 the gang and I hiked into Denali National Park's backcountry for an overnight trip. It was my first time doing a backcountry trip through a national park and seemed fitting.
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We were hiking into in a valley filled with braided streams and wildlife, backcountry Unit 9 seemed to be the quintessential Alaskan experience.
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The gang from left to right: Kristyn, Heidi, and Emily. Couldn't have asked for more badass-scientist-adventurer companions!
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Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II.
We weaved through patches of woody shrubs and open gravel bars. Because we were in bear country there was plenty of loud singing courtesy of Emily's impressive pipes.
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Lunchtime! It is also where we spotted a golden eagle hunting and our first bear. It was too far to ID the species of bear, but it was lumbering its way down into the valley from the road side (where we entered). We had no choice but to pack it up and to keep hiking down into the narrowing valley.
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Tensions were high for maybe 30 minutes or so as we tried to create distance between us and the bear. Every once in a while I would stop and try to locate the bear but agains the brown and grey of the valley it was difficult. To our luck a second bear entered the valley from the ridge across from us.
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One of the locals.
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Fancy geology thing.
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The terrain changed the closer we got to the end of the valley. We planned on camping on a flat gravel bar a kilometer or so from this plain.
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As we set up camp fog rolled into the valley and a light rain pattered our tents.
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With daylight sitting at about 22 hours, I relied on my buff and the sound of the rain and good conversation to lull me to sleep.
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We were greeted by a clear, blue day the next morning and began the 10km hike out.
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Hello Mr. Bear.
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Caribou tracks.
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Just a couple of 'Bous.
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Goodbye dear, sweet Unit 9.
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We have to catch the bus!
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We caught a westbound bus to Eielson Visitor Center and spotted a sow and her two cubs foraging for roots!
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I couldn't believe how blonde and fluffy they were!
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I wanted to puppy pile with them, and then be eaten.
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Parts of Mt. Denali in all it's cloudy splendor.
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We caught a second glimpse of the bear family on our way eastwards to the park entrance. They were all tuckered out and ready for a nap.
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1 month old Oosa at one of our BBQs. She was never one for social events.
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A moose friend checking out our BBQ.
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Calibrating our Eddy tower.
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We replaced the soda lime and magnesium perchlorate which serve as a CO2 scrubber and drying agent respectively.
Check out my instagram for more details.
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Fireweed in full bloom.
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Sleepy cabin afternoons.
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The dog yard in summer.
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Sky looking stunning as always.
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Me, Oosa, and Boom at close to 2 months!
Photo Credit: Justin
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Those precious little toes!
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Taiga's pups loved biting on my Carhartts. They are close to 1 month old in this picture.
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With salmon and steelhead season upon us, Mike gave the cabin last year's catch and I cooked it up!
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Maintenance being done on Regulus Rd.
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The various moss species of the tundra.
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Elaine shows the gang how to conduct point frame measurements. It. Was. A. Doozie.
See link for more information (Point Frame Method).
Pain for science.
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Suffering for science.
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Not quite big enough yet to get over the door.
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Everyone loves Grandpa Mike!
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On a chilly July morning we lugged Mike's old inflatable raft down the Denali Highway and into the Nenana River.
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The team!
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Our fisherman mascot, Meghan.
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Leaning trees courtesy of thawing soil.
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July 17th, 2017, the day Emily made me the best birthday carrot cake cupcakes I've ever had!
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Meghan soldering the wires for one of our autochamber's fans. 90% of our job was maintenance of the various systems.
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On July 31st, 2017 my parents flew all the way from Virginia to visit me! It was the first time they have ever visited me at a job and was their first time in Alaska!!!
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We spent the first two days at Chena Hot Springs where they got some well earned R&R.
See link for more information (Chena Hot Springs Resort).
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In addition to the natural hot springs, the resort grows its own vegetables and has a working airstrip.
See link for more information (Chena Hot Springs Resort).
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The fresh air, tall trees, and peaceful scenery was exactly what my parents needed.
See link for more information (Chena Hot Springs Resort).
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Vintage trucks and mining equipment decorate the resort.
See link for more information (Chena Hot Springs Resort).
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They even have their own sled dogs!
See link for more information (Chena Hot Springs Resort).
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The rest of their trip was spent at Earthsong Lodge just down the gravel road from my cabin. They got an adorable cabin all to themeselves!
Coincidentally, Earthsong is who Mike runs his dogs for - check them out for lodging and dog sledding!
See link for more information (Earthsong Lodge).
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We spent the rest of their trip in the Denali/Healy area. We took the bus into Denali on the first day and were lucky enough to have clear weather and plenty of wildlife!
See link for more information (Denali Bus Tours).
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Mt. Denali on a remarkably clear day.
See link for more information (Denali Bus Tours).
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My beloved parents at Eielson Visitor Center. It was the first time all three of us were in a national park together and certainly the farthest we've been from Virginia!
See link for more information (Denali Bus Tours).
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The Resting Grizzly statue at the Denali Visitor Center at the entrance of the park. My mom called it a "big Levi"!
It has a fun webcam during the warmer months (Resting Grizzly)!
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My parents visiting the CiPEHR site. It was surreal seeing them out in the field site with me. I spent many days a lone out there thinking about family and friends and home.
See link for more information (CiPEHR).
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Dinner was often times at Glitter Gulch, the seasonal pop-up town just north of Denali National Park where tourists can find food, booze, lodging, and souvenirs.
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Alpenglow on the Alaska Range.
See link for more information (Earthsong Lodge).
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One of the many hand made cabins at Earthsong.
See link for more information (Earthsong Lodge).
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One of our neighbors had Norwegian fjord horses and I would always stop and say hello on my runs.
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Heidi getting a better view of Mt. Denali.
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Fog rolling in on Hwy 3 on our way back from a day trip to Talkeetna.
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Stormy skies.
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Always writing and documenting.
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Elaine and Emily were measuring radiocarbon readings, though I can't remember why.
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Flint and Flash at 2 months! They still love to bite my pants!
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Sunset on Hwy 3 on my way back from dropping the students off at the airport. And so began the quieter days of the season.
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Orb weaver in one of our warming chambers. Don't worry it can get out if it wants.
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Foggy boardwalk days with Justin.
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They are so beautiful I love them.
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Once in awhile Justin, Meghan, and I would take all of Justin's pups down the road for a walk along Stampede Rd. Yes, the same road from Into the Wild.
See link for more information (Stampede Trail).
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Fog along the Denali Highway.
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Heavy clouds over the tundra.
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Fall in Healy.
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Sandhill cranes (Grus canadensis) migrate across the Alaskan sky. The mass migration went on for weeks and I couldn't believe how far their loud calls would carry.
See link for more information (Sandhill Crane).
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See link for more information (Sandhill Crane).
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See link for more information (Sandhill Crane).
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Fall colors along Antares Rd. Though the spruces didn't change color the many broad leaf trees and shrubs turned a brilliant yellow.
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Taking soil moisture measurements in conjunction with NASA’s Arctic-Boreal Vulnerability Experiment (ABoVE) L-band flyover of the Eight Mile Lake area.
See link for more information (ABoVE).
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Rain or shine, we needed to calibrate the tower again when one of our wires started malfunctioning.
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My dearest Ohma.
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The return of clear skies marked our entrance into early winter.
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The Milky Way and Aurora Borealis. My proudest night shot I've taken.
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Poppy is a good girl.
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On September 17th, 2017, Meghan, Justin, and I took the pups on a long hike up the ridges surrounding Stampede Rd.
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Ohma.
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Hanging with mom.
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Fall colors in the upland tundra.
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Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II.
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Puppy pile!
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Boom looking regal.
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Finn and Justin watch the pack.
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Endless sunset.
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Fall days.
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By this point in the season Meghan and the students had all returned to Flagstaff and it was just Justin and I taking flux measurements and doing end-of-season protocols.
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Winter is coming.
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Shot with a Canon 5D Mark II.
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As the season transitioned into winter we winterized the site by putting the snow fences back up and taking apart the brains and chambers.
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Winter is here.
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The mountains are white again.
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It also meant that I was doing much more computer work and less fieldwork each day.
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In it's place of the autochambers we switched to a manual single chamber version of the flux chambers seen here.
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Morning shift mood.
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Close up shot of the arduino data logger on our manual flux chamber.
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Clear skies in the distance.
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It was also around this time that Mike had to travel out of state for wilderness first aid training and Justin and I became the primary caretakers of the 30 dog kennel.
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On October 29th, 2017, Finn, Justin, and I headed south for Palmer, AK to see Mandolin Orange!
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Heading south.
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Matanuska River in Palmer, AK.
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Moose carcass.
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Irene Lake in Gateway, AK.
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Irene Lake in Gateway, AK.
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Yours truly with flux bae.
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Morning moon.
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Kobuk.
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Panda and Onyx.
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The abandoned double wide trailer down the street from our cabin.
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I never figured out who owned this camper trailer.
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Horse guy's house.
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The office.
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Our moss bottle.
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A wintery drive to Fairbanks.
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Sunset on Hwy 3.
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During my last few weeks in Alaska I helped Mike and Justin run the dog teams to get them in shape for the winter mushing season. I never imagined learning so much from a single season.
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The day of our last run before I flew out I took shots of all the doggos. I knew I was going to miss them very much.
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Justin chaining up to dogs before feeding them.
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Daphne waiting for her ground meat. Her chest is stained red from the harness - not blood.
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Little Flash was still getting used to being on the chain.
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Zora was the oldest of the dogs still in the large pen. She is slated to retire this season and is a sweetheart.
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Thing was the most neurotic dog of the bunch and seemed to want to attack me every time I got close. But 7 months later and plenty of feedings and petting we were good friends.
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Panda was a sweetheart when he was being fed but was batshit crazy when it came to being harnessed. He almost bit me in the neck twice.
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Biscott was one of the lead dogs and was the most obedient of them all. Her litter included Queen, Sky, and Flake - all of whom are great runners.
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Lasso is the suspected father of Oosa and Boom and is always does a dance when it's time to eat.
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Dublin was the most beautiful and wolf-like of the dogs. He was all-around good tempered and was a reliable runner.
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Sky was a favorite among the students. He had a characteristic floppy left ear.
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Conky was the father of Taiga's puppies. His genes were definitely stronger than hers since each puppy turned out black with a white tuxedo chest.
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Mike packing up the sleds after a good run. I miss the doggos and the tundra.
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Yours truly on my last day. -20F!
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And lastly, Boom, Oosa, and me at 6 months!
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